Video Tutorial - How to Fill a Motorcycle Battery with Acid
Some sealed lead acid batteries require acid to be added to the actual battery before it is initially used in an application. We highly recommend taking the necessary precautions before installing the new battery to your bike or ATV. Safety should be the number one priority when dealing with acid.
APC RBC32 Battery Assembly Video
I apologize for the long lead time on the APC RBC32 battery assembly video, we have just been crazy busy the past few weeks here at the shop. A customer dropped off an old depleted APC RBC32 battery pack and left it with us over the weekend to rebuild, so we decided that it was time to make our official RBC32 battery assembly video.
APC RBC32 Battery Assembly Video Transcript
Hello everyone, my name is Richard Price and I am with a company called High-Tech Battery Solutions. Today I will be showing you how to assemble your own APC RBC32 battery pack using the kit shown here on our web site.
There are two items in particular that will make this assembly quick and easy for you. The first is a small knife, and the second will be some packing tape used in the final steps.
The first thing we need to do is dis-assemble the old APC RBC32 battery by cutting the tape that holds it together with our small knife.
Alright - once the tape has been cut, we can now remove the batteries from the RBC32 wiring harness
The easiest way to begin is to tilt the first battery up and remove the yellow (positive) wire first, and then our negative (or black wire).
This is what the very top of the wiring harness of the RBC32 battery looks like. The yellow wire that runs across the top here jumps the two batteries together to make a large 24 volt battery. This is the positive connection here, and the negative is our black wire here. The negative an positive of the RBC32 tie together in the final plug.
The best way to remove the bottom battery is to lift up on the grey plastic wiring harness to expose the terminal connections. A quick trick here is to pull back on the yellow wire to disconnect it from the negative terminal and then tilt the plastic up further to remove the positive.
Okay, so we have your recently purchased APC RBC32 battery kit here and its time to re-assemble our pack. Make sure the wires in the exposed side of the harness are pushed in place, this is the side that we will be connecting first - this side will come last.
The first step here is to attach the black wire to the negative terminal of your battery, and then the yellow to the costive. Then we push down a wiggle the grey plate until. Once thats done we are ready to attach the last battery to the very top.
The easiest way to do this is to bend the wire connectors back a bit to give you an small angle. Flip the battery up and aline the wires with the terminal of your last battery. Once they are alined you can slide it down to make the connection.
The last step of this assembly is to secure the batteries to the wiring harness by applying a few pieces of tape to either side of the pack.
And now you have just assembled your own APC RBC32 battery pack.
APC RBC43 Battery Assembly Video
Hello Everyone,
Since we have started putting together videos on how to assemble a few of the RBC batteries using the kits that we sell, I have been getting a lot of requests for a tutorial on how to properly (and quickly) assemble the APC RBC43 battery pack. A customer had brought in a unit to us, and was more than happy to lend us his RBC43 pack for this video. Please let me know if you have any comments or questions!
Thank You,
Richard Price
High-Tech Battery Solutions, Inc.
APC RBC43 Battery Assembly Video Transcript
Before we begin, there are three tools that you will need to use throughout the APC RBC43 installation. The first of which is a flat head screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a philips head screw driver.
In order to get to the eight batteries that make up the APC RBC43 pack, we must first remove the top of the unit. As you can see here, there are four phillips head screws that hold the cover in place that we need to be removed.
Once the screws have been removed, we can then remove the lid of the RBC43 by lifting the cover at both ends.
This will be exactly what the inside of the RBC43 looks like. Now, there are several different methods to replacing these batteries - Here at the shop we like to replace one battery at a time. This helps to eliminate any possible confusion when it comes to the wiring of the batteries.
To begin removing our first battery, we will need the help of our needle nose pliers. As you can see from the front of the pack here, there are white plastic wire connectors attached to the negative and positive terminal of each battery. To remove the plastic connector, you will need to get a firm grip of it with your set of pliers and apply downward pressure.
Once both of the wires have been removed, you can then take the battery out of the RBC43 pack.
Now you will notice here that there is a clear plastic terminal protector over the positive terminal of the battery. Use your flat head screw driver to gently pry the piece loose from the top of the battery.
Once the terminal protector has ben removed, its time to put it on the positive or red terminal of your new battery and install it.
Once the battery has been placed in the RBC43 tray its time to re-connect the wires using our needle nose pliers.
Now you will repeat that process for the four batteries in the first bank
Okay, now that we have the first bank of 4 batteries completed, we can then move on to the second bank. Take note of the space between the two banks, this will give you a little more maneuvering room to disconnect a re-connect the wires.
If we take a look at the last two batteries in our RBC43 pack, you can see that there is a little bit of maneuvering room - as well as the fuse and plug set-up for the battery. Keep those connections in mind while disconnecting your wires, you do not want to slip and accidentally damage the fuse.
With the last of the two batteries in place and wired up, its time to put the cover back on your RBC43 battery pack.
Once the lid is in place, we can then secure the lid with the four screws we removed at the start.
One final test that we always recommend is a volt meter test using the positive and negative terminals of the blue anderson clip. The proper voltage that you should see is between 48 and 51 volts.
Well guys thanks for watching our how to video on the APC RBC43 battery assembly, if you have any questions you can either comment on this or head over www.techbatterysolutions.com and click on the contact us now tab.
APC RBC7 Battery Assembly Video
We have gotten a few requests from customers asking us to write up a tutorial on how to properly assemble an APC RBC7 using our RBC7 Battery Kit. This is our first shot at recording and editing a tutorial YouTube video, so please feel free to check it out and give us any feedback or criticism that you may have to help us improve!
RBC7 Battery Assembly Video Transcript
Hi, my name is Richard Price. I am with a company called High-Tech Battery Solutions and today I will be showing you how to assemble your own RBC7 battery pack.
Before you begin you are going to need a couple tools. You’re going to need a Philips head screwdriver, a flat head screwdriver, and some 3M double sided tape, which we provide for you.
So this is going to be the standard RBC7 battery. First step here is your going to have to disassemble the battery. So we begin by taking the flat head screwdriver and prying off these two plastic covers that are just held on by some double sided tape underneath, so it shouldn’t take to much to get them off.
Now you can see where the fuse and the plug are. First thing we are going to remove is going to be the fuse. You are going to take your Philips head screwdriver and if the bolt is just spinning in there, you can use your flat head screwdriver to stop it from spinning here (with a little leverage). Now the other one. Remember to keep all the parts that you take off this because you are going to go right back and put them on the new pack.
Next, you are going to take off the plug the same way you took off the fuse.
Now that all the parts have been taken off, you just put this aside. It is always recommended that you recycle your old batteries; it is never a good idea to throw them out.
This is the standard RBC7 battery kit that we sell. It comes with both 12 volt 18 amp hour batteries that you need and it comes with a little bit of double sided tape for you so it will make you’re process a little easier. Special tape we have 3M tape, it is one of the strongest tapes they carry and it’s good to resist heat and age.
First things first, take one strand of double sided tape put it at the top of the battery. Take another strand put it at the bottom of the battery, you could put one in the middle if you would like but two is actually all it needs because these units typically don’t move around too much.
Peel off the side of the tape, stand your battery up.
Now when you sick these two batteries together you want both the terminals facing inwards so you can make the connection like just in the old pack there. Line them up, use your fingers as guides when you are lining them up. It doesn’t have to be a perfect fit but it needs to be pretty close in order for the unit door to close. So you push them together give a little pressure there and flip them over. Just put a little bit of you’re body weight on there, a good 10-15 seconds will make the glue solid and stick. Then you can flip it up and you are ready to begin assembling the pack.
First steps first, I like to put on the fuse last just so you can eliminate any possibility of shorting out the battery when you are putting on the plug. First step I do is put on the plug here, just the way it came off the old battery. You want the eyelet to be behind the terminal and the plastic fuse piece you want facing inwards so when you do put on the cover again it will fit down nice and snug. So get that nice and tight first -t hen you can do the black, by the way black is always going to be negative in this case so it is black to black and red to red. Get that nice and tight there. Use a little bit of leverage if the bolt is spinning. You don’t really have to crank theses down too hard but you want to get them so they not wiggling around so you can get a good connection.
Then you can flip it over to the other side, now you can put on your fuse. The fuse faces in, it actually sits in the battery like this. So again, both the eyelets are going to be sitting behind the terminals. These are sometimes a little bit tricky to put back in, you might have to wiggle them around a little bit.
Now that everything is all hooked up, you put your plastic covers back on. First one to go on is going to be the one with the plug. Make sure the wires fit in-between these two groves here so it is nice and flat going into your unit. Mine still had double sided tape on it when I took it off and that was okay but sometimes you are going to have to ad a little extra double sided tape because some of these packs are very old and the tape hasn’t held up well.
Once you press that down you are all set. You have yourself your own RBC7 battery for half the price.
CTEK MUS 4.3 Test and Charge Battery Charger Video Breakdown
Hi my name is Richard Price and I am with High-Tech Battery Solutions. Today we are going to be talking about the CTEK MUS 4.3 Test and Charge.
We have provided some notes and text covered in the tutorial video below. We hope you enjoy.
Hi this is Richard Price from High-Tech Battery Solutions and today we're going to be taking a look at the CTEK MUS 4.3 Battery Charger and the Test and Charge System. This is a brand new model from CTEK which we've gotten quite a few inquiries about this charger so we figured we would make a video and show you how to use this charger.
First we're going to explain what exactly makes this charger different compared to the rest of the CTEK models and then we're going to go into tutorials about how to actually use some of these cool features built into the charger. The 4.3 Test and Charge will still have the patented 8-step charging cycle that the original 4.3 charger has but has 3 extra bells and whistles.
The first one is going to be an actual battery test where its going to test the standing voltage of the battery, the third is going to be a starting test where you'll actually hook this charger up to the battery to start your vehicle and it will actually make sure that there is ample starting power to start the vehicle and the third and final test will be an alternator test and what this will show is actually record the voltage output of your alternator and make sure its adequate enough to charge up your battery.
How its going to do this is the three LED lights here and we're actually going to go into a short video series here and show you exactly how these work. Okay the first thing we're going to do here with the CTEK MUS 4.3 is we're going to go ahead and test out the battery mode and what the battery mode is going to do is test the preliminary voltage of the battery as its sitting and just tell you if its good or bad. What we're going to pay attention to is the three LED lights right here, Red is Bad, Yellow is Fair and green is going to be good. You will always want it to be in the green. So without connecting the power, we're going to go ahead and hook this charger up to our battery, positive to the positive post and negative directly to the negative terminal here.
Okay you're going to see the charger blink through the lights and you're going to want to hit the mode button, it will automatically go into the first setting which is the battery mode. It will blink a few more times until it lands on a solid light. In this case it is going to be green which means that our battery is fully charged. So the next test here is going to be the start power, and what this does is hook the battery charger up to the battery and then start the vehicle as quickly as you can and its going to test the actual starting power of the battery. We're going to go ahead and do that right now. Unhook it and clip it back up. Go ahead and hit the mode button again and it will switch over to the start power and then we will start the car.
Okay it looks like everything is good on that front. Okay so we did pass our start test there and the last test we're going to do here is called the alternator test and what this is going to do is check the output of the alternator and check that it is up to par so that whenever you drain this battery down every time you start your vehicle, it is going to have an adequate power to charge it back up. So we will go ahead and re-hook up the charger to the battery here and then go ahead and switch it over to the alternator mode by hitting the mode button one more time. Go ahead and start the car. You will see the light starting off in red and then it works its way up to the green and you want to give this test here about 15 seconds, once the indicator doesn't move, you want to rev the car up to about 2000 rpms that will give you the most accurate reading possible.
Okay so we just went and ran you through the three different voltage programs of the 4.3 test and charge and what we're going to do now is hook it up to this NorthStart battery and run it through the different charging combinations and algorithms that you can actually use on this charger. There is going to be a few different options here so we are going to show you what each one looks like on the LED indicator lamp and explain what each step does and how it works. Okay now that we're in the automotive setting here you're going to see the indicator panel begin to light up showing that we are going through the 8-step charging process. Now this particular setting here, the vehicle setting, is going to be used for 12 Volt flooded batteries and if we hit the mode button one more time that will bring us into the next phase in what is called the snowflake mode in which this mode in particular tis going to be meant for sealed AGM batteries like Optima, Odyssey, and NorthStar and also for colder climates so if you're charging in extremely cold weather, lets say its winter and you're storing your car long term you're going to switch it over to the snowflake mode in the automotive series.
The very last mode here is going to be called the recondition mode and what the recondition mode is meant for is to bring back life into a fully dead battery so if you have a battery that has been sitting in a vehicle for an extremely long time and it has been completely discharged, chances are that sulphation has actually built up inside the battery so you would switch it over to this recondition mode manually and what that will do is bring back and rejuvenate the battery to as much capacity as is physically possible. Another nice feature of this charger is that you can do all three modes at the same time so that if you did have a 12 Volt automotive battery that was sealed that may need the recondition mode you can select all three and it will run through the 8-step charging process. Now we only went through the automotive side, there also is as we discussed earlier the motorcycle side for the smaller batteries which will follow the same charging algorithm that we showed you there.
Stick to the video demo on this one guys...
How to Add Acid a Motorcycle Battery
- Remove the battery from the box.
- Take the Battery Acid Pack out from the box.
- Prepare the battery by removing the foil seal.
- Carefully puncture through the pack with the battery itself.
- Let the acid drain and then sit for at least 15 minutes.
- Make sure the entire battery acid cartridge is drained into the battery unit.
- Remove the plastic pack.
- Take the plastic cap and put it over the battery carefully aligning the holes.
- Gently press down the cap until it fills in the holes.
- With ease, Take a hammer to the cap over each piece until the cap sits flush with the battery top.
- Charge the battery on a trickle charger if possible for some time (2-6 hours).
- Use the battery in its desired and correct application.
How to Replace the Go Go Elite Traveller Battery Pack
This is a full tutorial for replacing the batteries inside of the Go-Go Elite Traveller Battery Pack. This battery pack requires a pair of 12V 12AH sealed AGM batteries which you can view here - Go-Go Elite Traveller Battery Kit.
Please let us know if you have any questions about the Go-Go Elite Traveller Battery Pack by hitting the contact us tab above or give us a call toll free 1-877-775-4381 to talk to a live battery specialist.
How-To Wire New Razor Scooter Batteries
Features of the NOCO G7200 Charger Video Breakdown
NOCO has released the new 2.0 version of the G7200 battery charger earlier this year and we love it - plain and simple. The 2.0 version of the G7200 NOCO battery charger is still a microprocessor controlled portable battery charger and maintainer capable of charging both 12 and 24 volt battery applications - but it now packs a few more essential features that we have outlined below:
Dedicated 12V Repair Mode:
The 12V repair is an advanced battery recovery mode for repairing and storing old, idle, damaged, stratified or sulfated batteries. The most common situation for a damaged battery is storage or non-use where it was kept at a low state-of-charge and/or never given the opportunity to receive a full charge, which leads to battery sulfation and stratification. Both battery sulfating and stratification will artificially raise the open circuit voltage of the battery, causing the battery to appear fully charged, while providing low capacity. For optimal results, take the 12-volt battery through a full charge cycle, bringing the battery to full charge, before using this mode. The 12V repair mode can take up to four hours to complete the recovery process and will return to Standby when completed.
12V Lithium Mode:
This is a welcomed new addition to a lot of the G series NOCO chargers - the ability to charge Lithium batteries. The 12V lithium charge mode is designed for 12-volt lithium-ion batteries only, including lithium iron phosphate.
12V AGM+ Mode:
The 12V AGM+ mode is designed for a new style of AGM batteries commonly referred to as ‘advanced’ AGM batteries. This is a new technology typically found in many start and stop micro-hybrid vehicles. Pure lead AGM batteries such as Northstar, a select few Optima, and Odyssey batteries fall into this category.
The V2.0 NOCO G7200 series charger still packs the same charging power and voltage capabilities as the first version did. In case you’re new to the G7200 unit we have listed them below:
Capabilities:
- Able to charge both 12 and 24 volt batteries
- 12V Charge Rate - 7.2 amps
- 24V Charge Rate - 3.6 amps
- Able to charge flooded, AGM, GEL, and now lithium batteries
- Microprocessor controlled - you can leave this on a battery indefinitely and it will never harm the battery
- Battery Charger
- Quick Disconnect Battery Clamps
- Quick Disconnect Eyelet Terminals
- Mounting Screws
- Instruction Manuals
NOCO GB150 Jump Starter Review and Demonstration
The NOCO GB150 jump starter is finally here! We have gone ahead and made a video demonstration explaining some of the features of the GB150 and then we follow it up with an actual demonstration of the jump starter in use. The vehicle that we had tested the GB150 on was a Ford F150 with a 4.6L Triton V8 engine, the battery in the truck was measuring at 1.68 volts - beyond dead.
Please let us know if you have any questions about the NOCO GB150 Lithium Jump Starter by hitting the contact us tab above or give us a call toll free 1-877-775-4381 to talk to a live battery specialist.
NOCO Genius G750 Battery Charger Video Guide
Hi my name is Richard Price and I am with High-Tech Battery Solutions. Today we are going to be talking about the NOCO G750 battery charger. The NOCO G750 is NOCO’s entry level battery charger / maintainer, it will do both 6 and 12 volt batteries of different chemistries including flooded batteries found in cars, AGM batteries as well as GEL batteries.
Straight out of the box your going to get the G750 which is a direct wall mount charger and your going to get a pair of plastic battery clamps as well as a pair of permanent mount eyelet terminals. Now both of these connectors are going to be whats called a quick disconnect. You can permanently mount either of these options, pull your car into the garage and hook it up to the charger.
NOCO 5 Stage Charging Cycle
The NOCO G750 is going to feature a 5 step charging cycle. We are going to dive into a little bit about what exactly each step means in terms of what its going to do for the battery itself just so you have a general understanding of why this charger is going to be a little bit superior when compared to the other battery tenders that are out there today.
Step 1: Diagnostics
The first step is called the diagnostic step. This is going to check the battery voltage to make sure the battery connections are good and the battery is in stable condition before beginning the actual charging process itself.
Step 2: Soft Start
The second step is called a soft start - prior to the actual full charging process. The second step is going to begin the bulk charging process with a gentle or soft charge, so in other words its not going to hit it hard and quick, its going to put in a small charge to make sure that every internally is going to be okay with the battery.
Step 3: Bulk
The third step is called the bulk charge phase. In this step, its going to continue the bulk charging process to return about 90% of battery capacity. So its not going to charge it all the way up in this particular phase its going to get it to about 90 - 95% charged and then its going to kick over into the fourth phase.
Step 4: Absorption
The fourth phase is called the absorption phase, which will begin charging the battery to the 100% mark. The battery charger will deliver small amounts of current to deliver a safe and efficient charge and limit battery gassing - which is extremely important in both GEL and AGM batteries.
Step 5: Maintenance
The fifth step, or the maintenance step, will monitor the battery voltage continuously to determine if a maintenance charge should be initiated. If the battery falls below a certain voltage either a 6 or 12 volt battery it will kick on to whats called a maintenance mode or pulse charge that will bring it back up to a healthy and sustainable voltage level and will cut the charger off until its needed once again.
Note: For a bit more detailed information on the 5 step charge cycle used by the G750, you should check out Introducing The NOCO G750 Battery Charger. This article focuses almost entirely on the charging algorithm.
NOCO G750 Demonstration
Stick to the video demo on this one...
